Pros and Cons of the TYMCO 210

Discussion area for what types, makes and models of sweepers are right for what types of jobs.

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Pros and Cons of the TYMCO 210

Postby Reg » Sun Jan 22, 2006 7:56 pm

Could I pease have your views on the TYMCO 210 for parking lot sweeping.




Postby Tom_in_CA » Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:02 pm

The Tymco 210, if operated and adjusted correctly, will spew less dust into the air. The Mr. Air ("Masco") and Shwarze, on the other hand, will spew a flume of dust 2 stories high :roll: That may not be important, if all you do is parking lots in the middle of the night (no one to complain, and probably not super dusty lots to begin with).

The 210 also has a more complicated head set-up, vs the Sharze & Mr. Airs, hence, more moving parts, upkeep, etc..... The Shwarze & 210 may be a tie for shear power (ability get an XX size rock, or whatever), but like I said, the Shwarze does it at the cost of expelled dust flume.

I use Tymcos for daytime jobs, where I couldn't get away with spewing dust. Like Mobil home parks (picky residents), or sealcoat prep, (where they don't want water on the ground, nor dust in the air that will only fall back down and coat the lot). You have to know what you are doing w/the 210, and have a "tight" system, and float a bathtub of water in the hopper. If it's done right, you can practically go through ash and baby-powder, with very little airborne dust, yet without ground water (smears).

This is overkill for just picking up diapers and broken glass at night, so if that's all you do, get a cheapie Mr. Air or Shwarze.

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Re: Pros and Cons of the TYMCO 210

Postby BIFF » Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:39 pm

You seem to know your Tymco 210 Sweepers! I am looking to purchase a used 210. My last sweeper was a Mobil (I really don't missing the upkeep on that beast), so I am new to regenerative air sweepers. What type of operating "tips" or "tricks"can you offer to help keep the sweeper operating at peak performance and keep the dust down? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Re: Pros and Cons of the TYMCO 210

Postby Tom_in_CA » Wed Apr 08, 2009 10:30 am


There's legions of tips. Without seeing what you're doing (like, if you were doing something wrong), it would take pages and pages to basically tell you what you can just get the operator's manual for. I mean, where would I start otherwise? :?

But assuming you've got the operator's manual, and are doing everything by the book, then I'll offer up a few more things, that either aren't mentioned, or aren't stressed as much as they should be:

1) Don't depend on the inside tank sprayers to arrest the dust in the hopper. They just don't work fast enough for real dusty environments. The idea of those inside sprayers is get get a lot of moisture circulating inside the hopper, so that the incoming debri/dust/dirt "drops down", instead of dust trying to get sucked back through the screen, and through the fan again, and through the tubes and head again, etc... Ie.: the "cleaner" that air is, that makes the return trip through the fan, the less likely that escaping air (like through the leaf bleeder), will be dirty air, to begin with. So escaping air is likely to be cleaner, if it was "caught" in the moisture of the hopper, allowing only the cleaner air to go up through the screen. So to enhance this, and create the maximum vapor to catch and drop the dirty air, I never depend on those inside tank sprayers. In fact, we just took them out, as they are a hassle (always gumming up, etc..) Instead, a more efficient way, to accomplish the same thing, is to have a "bath-tub" of water in the hopper, before you even start. That would be... filling the hopper with water, to a level of about half-way to the peak door's height. Once you crank up the sweeper, the incoming air will hit that sloshing water, and create a vapor. Not only does this help arrest dust from going back through the system, but it will also prolong your fan life, since the fan will be less prone from getting "sand-blasted" to death.

2) If you can close the leaf bleeder all the way, and get tremendous "blow by" (flaps blowing out, massive air escaping from under the skids, etc...) then you have some sort of in-balance problem. Like, leaky seals around tubes, doors that need to be weather-stip sealed better, etc.... Ideally, you should be able to close the leaf bleeder entirely, without such adverse air flow trying to escape. Yes the will always be "a little", since that air is trying to find the path of "least resistance". But if it's real bad air escaping, then you need to check for where you've got an inbalance in the system. It will either be on the blow side, or suck side, of the equation. It can also be things like clogged screens (even if only one panel out of the 9 is dirt/mud logged, it will throw off the balance). Mud above the screens, unseen, can build up too. So we created a hatch where the screens drop down for easy cleaning. Mud can accumulate on the suck side, creating what eventually results in a narrower contricted airway. It might not be easily discerned, because the caked surface can be so smooth, that you don't even recognize it as being any different from the under-lying metal surface. But if you don't watch it (and chip it off), before you know it, you can have that metal portion of the up-tube have half the circumference ultimately.

3) Make sure the blast orifice is only 1/4" wide on the blow side, and 5/8" on the suck side. The reason for the disparity is that on the blow side, you want it a little narrower, because once you crank up the system, it will "blow out wider" to 5/8", to match the other side, since the air is coming down stronger on the blow side. I believe the manual says 5/8" all the way across, if I'm not mistaken. But we elect to go a little narrower. Because if it's TOO wide (and be aware, that it will widen out, over time, with normal wear), you will have an imbalance in the system. If the air goes too easily through the blast orifice, you loose the energy factor, and are imbalanced as well. I have even had occasions where it seems I have to open up the leaf-bleader to half way, to avoid blow-by. And as I look for the cause of the imbalance, I find that my blast orifice has opened up to 3/4" or more. BINGO! I found the problem (in that case) :)

4) You can always run water on your ground sprayers. But I would never use that as a substitute for proper adjustments of the sweeper. Ie.: if you needed lots of ground water to keep cr*p from blowing away, making airborne dust, etc... you might just be "masking" a problem where your sweeper system is out of balance, hopper dry, etc... Because ideally, if done right, you won't need ANY ground water to control air-borne dust (with the exception of the gutter broom, which, of course, is making physical contact with the dirt). I have even swept stuff as fine as dry ash baby-powder type stuff, where we simply could NOT use ground water (lest we merely smear the ground, discolor everything, leave a pastie surface, where.... once the sun dries the water, you STILL have dust on the ground, right?) So in some case like this, and things like sealcoat prep, you DON'T want ground water to leave smeared wet dust on the ground. In those cases, if you have a very efficient operating Tymco, you can have the leaf bleeder closed, and very little to no airborne dust. Ie.: maybe just a *slight* bit of teensy pig-pen action around the head or something, that will go "under the radar".

For more tips, let me know specifically what question or problem you have, and I'll try to answer.

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Re: Pros and Cons of the TYMCO 210

Postby BIFF » Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:04 pm

Thank you for the info! I have found a used Tymco 210 that I hope to check-out next week! I am really looking forward to trying out the air sweeper system! I am sure I will have speific questions once I start using the sweeper!

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Re: Pros and Cons of the TYMCO 210

Postby davidmikky » Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:50 pm

his is the reason you must becareful not to bid to low... By the hour it is hard to get paid for the time you spend on a job....
.......Em Crazy..........

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